Wednesday, 4 December 2019


ANGELS are not just for Christmas!
So once you've experimented with this project, you can make them
all the year round ... as pendants, earrings, lucky charms and key rings
and of course, scaled up as Christmas decorations...

As my Mum has been very ill and whilst writing this, is still
in hospital, recovering from 2 hip operations, a broken hand and
a very weak heart ... I dedicate this Angel Tutorial to her, with the
hope that it will pull her through to coming home for Christmas!

For this project, you will need your usual pliers kit, some 0.4mm
and some 0.8mm wire, plus a selection of beads.


Working from the end of a spool of silver plated 0.8mm (20-gauge)
wire, create a tight spiral of approx. 1.5cm. The size of the spiral is
your choice and the width will determine the widest (base) part of the

Cut from the spool leaving a tail of about 7cm.


Create an open swirl spiral at the opposite end, curling it in the
same direction as the first ...


Bring the open spiral in towards the first tight spiral, until it sits
on top of it. The tight and open spiral should be the same diameter and
the central holes of each, should be aligned.


Lift the open spiral up (like a lid) ...


... and push out the wires to separate the coils of the tight spiral
to form a cone shape.


Once you have your wire 'cornetto', cut another length of 0.8mm
wire that is twice as long as your cone.


Place the straight wire through the narrow end of the cone and
thread with beads, right up to the level of the open spiral.


Push the open spiral lid down and push the end of the beaded wire
through the top central hole. Create a head pin (or small folded spiral)
to plug the base of the cone.


To create the WINGS: Wrap some 0.4mm wire around a ruler,
or piece of card, at least 8 to 10 times.


Gently slide the wrapped wires off the ruler, leaving a tail of
approximately 6cm .


Grip all the wires together at the centre and using the long tail
end, bind them tightly around the middle to secure. You should
now have the 2 ends pulled out, as shown above.


Use the ends of the wire, to secure onto the projecting beaded
wire going through the cone. Once secure, cut off any excess
and neaten the ends.


Thread a 'head' bead on top of the wings.
To create a HALO: use your round nosed pliers, or bail maker pliers
to create a wrapped loop above the top of the head bead, securing it
in place.


Once the wrapped loop Halo is created, cut off any excess wire and
if desired, Whammer the round end of the 'halo' to flatten and
work harden.


Gently use your fingers and pliers, to separate the long looped wires
of the wings, fanning them out on each side.

Now, all that's left to do is to suspend it from a jump ring for a

These little Angel Charms also make lovely little Xmas


Thursday, 31 October 2019


Before I go headfirst into my
'Leaf' Scarf Pendant Tutorial
I wanted to let you know that I have a new


I will be sharing techniques, ideas and all
things wire related and YOU are all most
definitely welcome to upload your wirework
images too, to share and inspire each other!
Let me know what you would like to learn
and any questions and queries you have on
your jewellery making journeys and I will
do my best to help and inspire ...

So PLEASE take a look, plus 'like' and share
with anyone who loves working with wire ...


Here in the U.K., we're moving into cooler, wintry
weather and I find myself wearing more scarves,
which I enjoy accessorising with my signature scarf pendants!

I have designed a new hanging bail, which is
different from my original coiled tube hanger (see below).

My latest scarf bail is more delicate and lacy in style:

This style of accessory is perfect for jazzing up your outfits!
It also makes the great gift for a scarf wearer.

So, if you're sitting comfortably, I will begin ...


Cut approximately 9"-10" of 0.8mm wire and fold in half.
(Use more wire if you want a bigger bail).


Create a long narrow 'leaf' shape and secure one end around the
other, leaving a projecting tail at the very end.


Cut an arm's length of 0.4mm wire and bind this in a random
way, securing it on each side of the frame, to fill the space


Use up all the wire and secure at the edge of the frame (and if
you run out of wire, you can always add more ...).


Use the tips of your chain nosed pliers to twist and
tweak the wires within the frame. This will tighten the
binding wires and add more design interest to the piece.


GENTLY 'stroke' hammer the wires within the frame to
burnish and work harden. (*Be careful not to bash too hard,
as you will weaken and possibly break them!)


Once the leaf frame is slightly tempered and toughened, wrap it
around a cylindrical mandrel, to shape into a circle.


Thread the projecting end through the opposite side of the frame
to create a loop and join as one.


Using your round nosed pliers, create a wrapped link or loop
with the projecting wire at the very end.
(*Optional: Using your fingers, carefully SQUASH the circular
bail down a little, to create more of an oval shape.)


To create the leaf pendant, begin in the same way as Step 1
and Step 2 of the bail, leaving a little more wire to secure around
the top, so that you can create a spiral detail at the top of the


Place the leaf frame on your steel block and hammer the outer
edge to work harden.


Cut an arm's length of 0.4mm wire and create curly-wurly shapes,
attaching it around each side of the frame to fill the space within.


Fill the entire frame with your scribbles of flowing wire.
Make sure to neaten all your ends.


For a centrepiece, you can cut a length of 0.8mm wire (a little
longer than your leaf) and attach some semi-precious chip
beads with 0.4mm wire along it.
(*Alternatively, you can just thread the wire with your chosen 
beads ...)


Place the beaded wire onto the centre of your frame and secure
at the tip of the leaf frame.


Repeat, to secure the beaded wire at the opposite (top) end of
the leaf. Cut off any excess and neaten the end.


Now the leaf pendant is ready to attach and suspend from your
looped bail!

To use: Thread the end of a long scarf through the gap in the bail,
pulling it to the middle of your scarf. Place the scarf with the
hanging leaf at the centre of your neck and bring the 2 ends around
each side of your neck (from back to front), so that they hang on
either side of the pendant.

Above are some of my experiments with different wires and beads!

And if you would prefer a different pendant, you can always suspend
any shape or style that you wish to blend with your scarf collection!

I hope you have enjoyed this tutorial and I would love to see your
own versions, so please do share on my new Facebook page!


Wednesday, 18 September 2019

The WHAMMER Deluxe

Watch out guys .... There's a new WHAMMER in town ... !

Beadsmith have manufactured it and brought it into the jewellery

The old Whammer with 3 heads, was specifically designed for
use with WIRE.

Whilst, the NEW Whammer Deluxe, is an all purpose Jewellery

It's every hammer you require for all your jewellery needs!

The new BRASS flat head is designed for metal stamping
(so that you can customise and decorate metal sheet), plus you
can use it for flattening wire. The new PICK head is for texturing
wire and metal, creating little rays, or cross hatching and can
also be used for riveting. The DAPPING head is another texture
head, providing little dimples on pre-flattened wire and on sheet
metal. The NYLON head is flattening and straightening wire and
metal, without marking the surface (especially good for plated
and coloured coated wires) and finally, the fixed STEEL head
is for planishing wire and metal - meaning you can flatten, spread
and work harden and you can even raise metal, when used on a
sand bag.

All these heads need to be used with a flat STEEL BLOCK.

The Steel planishing head, is a fixed general purpose
hammer and the four others are interchangeable.

So, follow me into my workshop and I will endeavour to show
you each of the different Whammer heads and their uses ...


If you are working with wire, you will be making your own
findings, such as clasps, ear wires, chain links, shaped frames,
etc... and these will need to be work hardened, so that they don't
misshape, remaining strong and durable.  In the image above,
I have created a wire 'doodle' charm, where the wire is still soft
and pliable ...

However, once I have Whammered it on the steel block - stroking it
out in the different areas that I want it to spread, it will end up as
a strong, flattened, charm which is perfect for use in my jewellery

Just spreading and flattening a short length of round wire on my
steel block, will provide a mushroomed end, which can be a
'feather' head pin (as the bell end prevents the bead from sliding off)
or, you could make lots of wire 'feathers' to create a necklace,
similar to the copper one below!

Brass is a soft metal and that is why it is more effective as
a metal stamping head, as it allows the steel punch design
to get better absorbed into the metal sheet below. Always
stamp on a sturdy, flat table top and don't put a pad under
your block ... it's all about getting the best imprint from the
steel punch and your metal blank is the sandwich filler
between the punch and the steel block.

Begin by getting a metal shape (either cut it with a saw out of
metal sheet, or purchase a pre-cut metal blank) and if you need to
create a suspension hole, you can do this with punch pliers, or a
screw down hole punch.

When metal stamping, it is advisable to use some tape to secure
your metal blank onto your block. This ensures it doesn't jump
around (or you will get double impressions, or potentially, not a
completely full impression). Just move the tape around and stamp
on the blank accessible areas, until you are satisfied with your design.

Don't be alarmed that the brass head of the hammer gets dented
and scuffed! It will! As brass is softer than the steel punch. However,
it wont affect your stamping in the slightest, it will just serve to
provide you with a crisp result as it absorbs the blow.

Once you've stamped your design, or if you wish to highlight
any texture on the metal, colour over the stamped, or textured
areas with a black permanent marker and let it dry.

Using either fine wire wool, a sanding block or fine sandpaper,
gently rub off the surface black colour to reveal the metal and the
ink will remain in the stamped indents. If necessary, you can use
a needle file to smooth off any rough edges on your pieces.

Finally, you can buff up the metal with some metal polish
and a polishing cloth to create a shine. Now the pieces are
ready to be used in your chosen designs ...

The copper shape on the left, was textured with the PICK and
DAPPING heads, as shown below:

The PICK head produces little ray lines on the metal surface,

and the DAPPING head produces little dents and dimples!

You can also choose to shape your metal blank in a doming block,
using the STEEL head. Do this after you have decorated it. Just place it
upside down in the wooden domed block and very gently tap it
into a shape - as you don't want to remove your surface decoration
on the opposite side!

If you're not doming or shaping your metal, you might need to
flatten it down, as the punching and texturing can result in
slight distortions. Use your NYLON head for any flattening,
as this will not mark or spread the metal.

Permanent marker pens and metal patina paints come in
many different colours, so you don't always have to stick
to black! Have a play with some colours!

This head is perfect for wire dimpling! You need to spread and
flatten your wire first with the STEEL head and then use the balled
end to strike the dents, whilst it's on your block.  It's very effective
for that extra sparkle!

The PICK head (above) has a sharp tip, therefore you don't
need to pre-flatten your wire to create the lines and surface strikes.
It can be used directly on chunky gauges, such as 1mm upwards.

As with stamping metal, you can also add colour to your textured

And whilst we are on the subject of texturing ... you will notice
that this moves the metal, causing it to lift and slightly distort. For
example, below is a wire doodle charm that has been flattened
(with the STEEL head) and then textured with the DAPPING

The dapping has lifted the metal (as it is now thinner), therefore
you need to flatten it down again. You can do this using the
NYLON head (as shown in the image below).


Place the textured wire on your steel block, either front side up
or reverse and stroke and tap down with your nylon head. This
will flatten the metal without marking or removing the surface

Whammer hammering does take some practice, but with plenty
of that, you will soon get a feel for how to stroke out the metal and
create the results you want! It's also incredibly therapeutic!
Welcome to Whammer Therapy ... where you can hammer away
all your blues!

I hope you can join me for the launch of the 
Whammer Deluxe, the multi-tool, all in one hammer, 
on Jewellery Maker TV on
October 5th at 11am to 12pm, UK time.

I am also going to be demonstrating all the Whammer
Deluxe heads at THE BIG BEAD show at Sandown Park
in Esher, Surrey on October 19th!

So do join me for some more inspiration as to how
to get the most out of your Whammer hammer Deluxe!

Below, is a little Gallery of images of some of the stamped metal pieces
that I have created with the new Whammer.


In the necklace above, I have used all 5 heads ... flattening,
work hardening, texturing, riveting and stamping!

And here are some of my Wire Jewellery Whammer pieces:

My 'Feather' necklace.

My 'Wiggle' necklace.

My 'Ripple' necklace.

My 'Heart' pendant with compressed Whammered wire.

My 'Rosette' design.

Some chunky chain links.

Some more chunky, compressed, circular chain links.

And to finish ... the Whammer Deluxe is also the perfect hammer for
making large wire home and garden decor designs, using chunky
aluminium wire!

I hope you'll become a Whammer hammer aficionado like me!

With the best 'hammer' jewellery inspiration from this book on